Touring the Rockies — Four

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Wednesday

We started early today (7:30) to beat the heat (we’re going to be at lower elevations). We had a tailwind and it was downhill for 35 miles. Then we rode 30 miles on a quiet backroad to Ft. Steele, which is near Cranbrook. There aren’t many backroads in BC. The main roads are mainly in long valleys, and there is little reason for long-distance backroads. We’re at the half way mark in the tour, and will ride another backroad tomorrow.

Along the way we rode by a natural cliff right beside the road. There were hundreds of swallows nesting there. They dig out holes for their nests in the soft sandstone that forms the cliff. The swallows appear to fly right into their nest holes without landing at the entrance. Unforgettable.

The campsite here at Ft. Steele is nice — flat tent sites, and good showers. A mother and daughter run the campground. Both of them were now widows. They told me they are “carrying on,” but a little mental arithmetic told me they must have some other income too.

You’re in a great social niche when you tour by bicycle. People are curious enough to want to talk to you, and they are comfortable approaching you. Your mode of transportation makes you non-threatening. It’s part of the magic. I talked with a couple from Leithbridge here. I explained where we were going, and how we went about living on the road.

Thursday

We’re camped at Spruce Creek Campground outside Fairmont Hot Springs. There are many resorts here. I helped Dick, our leader with shopping. We carried the groceries back to the campsite on our bikes. We had deli-style sandwiches and fruit salad for the main course. Sandwiches was plural in both the group and individual senses. 😀

The mosquitoes there were fierce. DEET just slowed them down. I had to wear my rain gear to eat. It started raining after dinner, so I wrote my notes sitting in my tent.

Friday

This was a big day for us: 130 kilometers by Canadian reckoning, or 80 miles. Our route was down the Columbia River Valley, which made it mostly downhill until the end.

We rode up to Redstreak Campground when we got to Radium. The camp is up on the flank of Redstreak Mountain. This steep hill at the end of out ride was a bit of a challenge. The big challenge would come the next day.

It was Ed’s and my turn to cook. We made a big salad, and had penne with spaghetti sauce. We also had cookies to stoke ourselves for the ride the next day. The grocery store manager kindly delivered our groceries, which saved climbing that hill twice.

Our route took us past Columbia Lake, which is the source of the Columbia River. It’s only a mile or so from the Kootenay (Flatbow) River here, which flows down to Libbey, Montana. From there it flows back up to join the Columbia in Canada. Just another unlikely artifact left behind by the Continental Ice Sheet.

Of course we enjoyed the iconic pools at the featured attraction. They are fed by the hot springs, and the pools feel a like a giant hot tubs. There is little or no radium in the water, but there is radon gas, which a decay product of radium. They have big lockers for your clothes there, and elegant showers. We spent a couple of hours there.

Saturday

The first thing we encountered in the morning was Sinclair Canyon. There’s an 11% grade right at the start of the climb. Climbing a grade on a loaded-bike is really hard at 8%, so 11% was a struggle. After a mile or so it “leveled out” to 6% or so. I was surprised that everyone made it.

Back over the Rockies again: We’re on our way back over the Great Divide from BC to Banff in Alberta. We’ll soon join the Icefields Parkway, and ride to Jasper. But first we’ll spent some time in Banff. I drove this road in 1985 to go backpacking in Assiniboine Provincial Park.

The scenery in Assiniboine Park is spectacular. You cannot climb Mt. Assiniboine without mountaineering gear. Strangely, you can get a helicopter ride into the Park though. I had an uncanny experience when I was backpacking there.

I discovered that it was snowing when I opened my tent flap the first morning there. About two inches had fallen already, so I quickly got on my way. Then it happened. As I walked along the trail I had the illusion that I was walking in place, and the world was rotating under my feet. Delightful. I was able to maintain that perspective for half an hour or so, and then it was gone.

We cycled to Marble Canyon Campground today. It’s near the Continental Divide. Our distance was 88 kilometers, or 55 miles. Tomorrow we’ll be in fabled Banff.

We stopped at nearby Marble Canyon along the way. Think of it as a miniature Grand Canyon. You can access the most picturesque stretch via suspended walkways and bridges over the canyon. It was about 100 feet down to the water. The headwaters of the Kootenay River flow in the canyon. Some of our riders experienced vertigo on the walk, and I have to admit there was a pucker factor up there.

In camp that evening, I talked with the only other (aside from our leader) rider with prior self-supported touring experience. I learned quite a bit about solo touring from him. For example, he carries a faucet handle. Many parks and campgrounds remove them to thwart mischief. But he can get the water he needs, and go on his way.