July 1, 1997: My journal says I camped at the Gateway Salmon Bake. I remembered it as Tok Salmon Bake, but nevermind. Even if you take the Top of the World Highway, you have to go through Tok to get anywhere in Alaska by road. It’s the only town of any size on the 385-mile haul from Whitehorse. Three roads enter the interior from Tok: One to Fairbanks, one to Anchorage and one to Valdez. As an aside, I’ve ridden about 30% of the paved highway miles in Alaska.
I had halibut instead of salmon for dinner the first night there. It was the best I’ve ever eaten. (Better than Dave’s for those who’ve been there.) I decided to spend another day in Tok for a break, some shopping, and some salmon. I camped near the showers (my journal says it was $5, not free), and right next to a new shower shed under construction.
Buildings in Alaska reflect local realities. There aren’t many carpenters, plumbers, sheetrockers, masons, and other tradesmen in outlying locations. So local, but untrained people improvise much of the building. They kind of do it by eye instead of from plans. Old buildings like those in Chicken were built that way, and this one at the Salmon Bake was being built that way too.
I met a cyclist here who I think was from Germany. He started in LA and rode to Bellingham to take the ferry to Haines. He is going back via Jasper and Montana. Roughly the reverse of a tour I had hoped to ride one day. I also met three girls doing the Haines to Dawson City to Skagway loop. All roads lead to Tok.
I was sleeping in, but I heard it starting to rain the next morning. I got up quickly and hurried over to Fast Eddy’s restaurant before it got too bad. I had eggs and reindeer sausage for breakfast (sorry Rudolph, that’s big up here). There was nothing unusual about the taste. The restaurant is surprisingly nice. Tok reminds me of an iconic Route 66 town in Arizona or New Mexico. It’s a busy, rustic place with lots of traffic.
I did some planning and grocery shopping on my day off. I bought some gold nugget earrings for Marcia and some small gifts for Barb, Nick, and Missy. Then I made reservations for the train from Fairbanks to Denali National Park, and on to Anchorage. The fare was $184, including $20 (twice) for my bicycle. I thought the ride would be interesting.
I got trapped one time in a gravel ridge on a descent North of Spokane. Once you are in one you can’t steer out of it safely. I lowered the air pressure in my tires for the gravel road from Dawson City. Lower air pressure gives you better control. There were some steep, gravelly descents to worry about on the way. I pumped the tires up again here in Tok so they would roll easier of the pavement. I also got everything packed for a quick start in the morning because it was going to be a hot day.
I had a big chunk of salmon for dinner the second night. Delicious. The owner owned a commercial fishing boat before. He told me his old contacts kept him supplied with the best fresh fish. Quite a few people ate at the salmon bake. It wasn’t baked though — they cooked over charcoal in a long fire pit. Their “Alaska Baked Beans” were very good too.
I got up at 5:15 am in the morning, ate breakfast at Fast Eddy’s, and was on my way to Dot Lake. I arrived there at 11:00 am, long before it got too hot.
Didit.Live 